jesse | Sun Mar-02-03 08:10 AM |
Member since Dec 10th 2002
156 posts
| |
|
#2530, "pouring plastics"
|
do you guys know how to make the cavitys for pouring plastics? any info is appreciated
|
|
|
woodsac | Sun Mar-02-03 09:05 AM |
Member since Jul 17th 2002
859 posts
| |
|
#2531, "RE: pouring plastics"
In response to Reply # 0
Sun Mar-02-03 09:06 AM by woodsac
|
I make all my own molds. I make them out of auto and marine resin. Some guys are making them out of 100% silicone because it's very cheap. Go to http://www.tacklemaking.com/forums/ and do a search for mold, mold making, and "exciting new mold material" The last one is all the info on how to make a mold from silicone. You can also make them out of paster of paris and Durhams water putty.
|
|
|
woodsac | Mon Mar-03-03 12:22 PM |
Member since Jul 17th 2002
859 posts
| |
|
#2540, "RE: pouring plastics"
In response to Reply # 2
Mon Mar-03-03 12:23 PM by woodsac
|
Sacto John, I have no problem posting here. Maybe it will help someone else too.
Your 1st question was about the mold making silicone. Are you refering to the RTV mold material? I have never used it personally because I prefer my molds to be hard; RTV is flimsy and has a tendency to give inconsistent results like a dull apearance to the plastic. The resin enables me to make changes if I don't like the final results. For example, I made a lizard mold that had very realistic feet that were very hard to pour, so I used my dremel and shaped them into paddle feet. More action in the water and easier to pour.
2nd: You want to know if you can make a mold out of a pre-existing plastic bait? Yes, BUT... the bait must have a flat back or stomach. If it has a round back or stomach, then you will need to make a 2 piece mold. For a 1 piece mold you will need the following:
pie pan (or small container to hold bait and mold material) I use the cheap pie or cake pans from the dollar store. super glue
Carefully glue the entire flat surface to the pan. Next mix up whatever mold making material you will be using. Mix it VERY slowly, and very well. The slower you mix, the less air bubbles you will create. Next, simply pour the material over your lure. Make sure you cover your entire lure and make the mold approximately 1/2" thicker then the bait. This will help the material last longer due to the high heat of the plastic when you pour.
3rd: Do you have any pictures of the process? Not of the actual process but of the finished material http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/mywoodsac/lst?.dir=/Resin+Molds&.view=t
Finally you wanted to know about the smell. I'm not sure what you are refering to. If your plastic is putting off a strong odor, it's possible you are heating it too fast. Heat the plastic slowly, stirring it frequently. I cook all my plastic in the microwave. It's much quicker and doesn't require as much effort. I use a fan to help blow away what fumes or odor are created.
If you have any other questions let me know. I'll try and help the best I can. Here is a pic of some of my custom craws. This is a top and bottom view. They are about 4 1/2" long. They have a "custom" scent and micro rattles in the head. They are great for bulking up a jig, or just "T-Riggin". I made the prototype from clay and them followed the steps above. Hope this helps.
http://www.calfishing.com/dc/user_files/834.jpg
Attachment
#1, (.jpg file)
|
|
|
woodsac | Mon Mar-03-03 03:34 PM |
Member since Jul 17th 2002
859 posts
| |
|
#2543, "RE: pouring plastics"
In response to Reply # 4
Mon Mar-03-03 03:43 PM by woodsac
|
The smell was in the silicone. I didn't give it a chance to go away. I just tossed the mold. All the others using this technique assure me that the smell will go away.
Basically you have two options for a two piece mold. You can use plaster or the silicone. The silicone seems to be the way to go. Just read that same thread several times over and experiment with some round worms. Something cheap. Make sure to coat the lure and whatever you use for keyways (like marbles) with vasoline before pushing them into the silicone. Then when the first half is dry, remove the keyways, coat mold with vasoline and add the 2nd half of the silicone over the lure and existing mold. Let it all dry under a 60 or 75 watt bulb for 5 or 6 hours. Don't forget to make a spru hole. You could use a straw. That's the hole that you will pour the plastic into when the 2 pieces are together.
If you want to use plaster, read the threads from "Chirmy" for about the last month and one of them will break it down real, real good. I just can't remember the name of the post.
Correction to above: use this link for the plaster http://www.tacklemaking.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2832&start=30
|
|
|
jesse | Mon Mar-03-03 04:40 PM |
Member since Dec 10th 2002
156 posts
| |
|
#2545, "RE: pouring plastics"
In response to Reply # 1
|
where do you get the silicone?
|
|
|
jesse | Mon Mar-03-03 04:49 PM |
Member since Dec 10th 2002
156 posts
| |
|
#2546, "RE: pouring plastics"
In response to Reply # 6
|
|
jesse | Mon Mar-03-03 07:23 PM |
Member since Dec 10th 2002
156 posts
| |
|
#2551, "RE: pouring plastics"
In response to Reply # 8
|
what is the resin called and what is the best kind to get?
|
|
|
woodsac | Mon Mar-03-03 08:22 PM |
Member since Jul 17th 2002
859 posts
| |
|
#2552, "RE: pouring plastics"
In response to Reply # 9
|
I use Evercoat marine or auto resin. I buy mine at the local parts house. You also have to buy the catalyst if it doesn't come with it. Just follow the mixing instructions. Also this resin has a very high cure temp so don't set it on anything that will melt or burn. Don't put it in tupperware because it will melt the tupperware or at least warp it real bad.
|
|
|
|
|
© Copyright Robert Belloni 1997-2012. All Rights Reserved.
This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed without express written consent.
|