I put this post up on ncbf regarding a question as to how and if trailer hooks should be used on big swimbaits. I thought it was a good one so I decided to cc it over here :)
I certainly would be interested if anyone has any of their own opinions on trailer hooks for the big stuff

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This is kind of a similar question to the "what hook to use on a senko" question. There are a lot of different opinions, and probably no "best" way.

Each of the different swimbaits have unique characteristics, some of which lend themselves well to using a trailer hook, and some of which do not. With the wooden baits like the MS Slammer, AC Plug, AC Minnow, and Z-Plug etc, you don't need any trailer because you have two trebles already.

For the big rubber swimbaits, things are different. For example, the optimum swimbait (I'm talking the 8 inch or larger) doesn't really work that well with a trailer hook. The bait flexes a lot on the cast and tends to foul itself with a trailer on it. Plus, this is more of a bottom dragging bait and gets hung up a lot with a trailer.

Another example is the stocker trout. The stocker trout really does need a trailer hook. It has these plastic wings that tend to block the fish from getting hooked on the top hook. Guys will take 40 or 60lb coated wire and rig from the eye of the bait. They cut a slit from under the eye back about 2 inches towards the belly and run the wire through there, then attach a 1/0 or 2/0 treble and seal the bait up with silicon. It puts the hook in what I consider to be the right place on a big lure. Just below the head and down a bit. It's also quite an expensive solution because you're going to tear up a lot of baits..

That's just one example of how to rig a trailer, there are lots of other possibilities.

I personally have given up on trailer hooks. I've also given up on baits like the Stocker Trout, Osprey Talon Swimbait, and Castaic Softbait trout. There are times when I think these lures might get more bites than my Slammer but missing 1/3 or more of the fish that bite my lure just drives me way too crazy. I'd much rather hook and land 9 out of 10 fish on the Slammer than get 15 bites on the Stocker trout say and miss 5 or more of them.

In all of these big lures there is always a tradeoff between realism and fish landing ability. You just have to find the rod/reel/line/hook and lure combination that puts the odds in your favor and the fish in the boat.

I'm experimenting with a trailer hook on a Castaic Trout. I removed the huge VMC front hook and replaced it with a #2 gammie round bend. Then I have a piece of #20 tied to the bottom ring with another #2 gammie. I stick one prong up the trout's butt.

I think going to two small hooks instead of one big one will increase hookups while keeping the same finesse. The smaller hooks should suck into the bass's mouth easier than the big one (and the light wire pierces a lot easier). I think I'd use a #2, or maybe a #1, even with only one hook.

I've only tried it two days so far and have got only one solid bite so far. It turned out just like I hoped. One hook inside the mouth and the rear treble buried in the head.

And because that treble is connected by a free 3-4 inch section of line it will be just about impossible for the fish to throw it (no weight connected to the hook).

I'll find out if I have to eat my words in a few months of fishing :)

Nico

I have a pretty cool rig that I have had for a while for my castaic that worked for me until my 10.1 inhaled the trout. it is hard to explain this but I have a pic if you wanna help me put it up rob.
I took a 4/0 offset gami. i take off the tail , cut a slit about a 1/4" into the newly exposed surface just under the top of the head. then I put the hook eye in that slit and add some super glue to fill the rest of the space in the slit. then I nail a small finishing nail through the top of the head and through the eye of they hook with a small drop of glue on the nail. then ithread the tail back on.
Very confusing but the whole process thakes 3-6 minutes.
tight lines
Ryan